NYTimes.com
New Canaan
Seasonably Cold By CHRISTOPHER BROOKS
Published: July 7, 2010
The pastel interior at Gelatissimo — Key lime walls, mango yellow countertop, papaya-colored tables — complements the colorful gelati in its freezer case: a large range of sumptuous flavors that Nuccia Mazzoneggo has been offering her customers in New Canaan for the past five years. Out of a rotating list of about 60, up to 22 flavors are available at a given time (from $3.75 to $6.25 a serving, depending on size). All are made on the premises by Ms. Mazzoneggo in batches no larger than a gallon and a half.
Ms. Mazzoneggo, who, with her husband, Andrea, owns the shop, was born in Italy, where she learned to make gelati from her father-in-law. The handmade quality is evident in the swirled, asymmetrical mounds packed into the cooler’s rectangular bins. It is even more apparent in their velvety smooth texture and vibrantly fresh taste.
The most popular flavors — mint-chocolate chip, a very intense chocolate, and chocolate hazelnut candy — are available most of the time. Others, like watermelon (made from fresh fruit), dulce de leche and a dairy-free passion fruit sorbet, appear seasonally, with a fig-based gelato to debut soon. A recent rosemary gelato was smooth and creamy, with pleasingly piney overtones, while pistachio, made from nuts imported from Sicily, was flat-out one of the best around, without a hint of the almond extract used by so many ice cream producers.
Gelatissimo also offers made-to-order crepes, filled with Nutella and topped with gelato, fresh strawberries and chocolate sauce ($6.25). Custom-made gelato cakes are available, too ($45 to $62, depending on size).
Gelatissimo, 26 Forest Street, New Canaan; (203) 966-5000. Summer hours are Monday through Sunday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. No credit cards accepted.
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